I like the south. It seems like everywhere I go, I have a home and a family to keep me company. The further this trip takes me, the nicer and more generous people get. I've said it before, but the kindness I witness everyday is incredible. It's rewarding, suprising, and above all comforting.
Day 19:
After a good night’s sleep in Wytheville, VA and a bangin’ continental breakfast (at which I acquired a free giant loaf of bread), I left the town behind. I did pick up a few much needed things before I left civilization once again though, namely a watch and a notebook. It’s amazing how much easier life is now that I always know what time it is.
The morning wasn’t without some disappointment though. First, it was raining (big surprise the...) But not a nice, warm summer rain. This was a cold, miserable rain that made riding a less-than-spectacular experience. Second, I chased a(what I soon found out to be) imaginary bike shop. Up a hill. I don’t want to talk about it.
Anyway, eventually I got back on route and made my way through the countryside. To my surprise, after such an awful morning the day turned out to be pretty amazing. I met a lovely Norwegian woman about 30 miles into the day who was following the same route as me across the country. We biked together for 20 or so miles on a very scenic road through a national forest and then on a really nice bike path that took us into the famous outdoors hub of Damascus. There are literally 10 bike shops in the small town, and just as many hiking and outdoors stores. I guess that’s the kind of development you get when you’re at the crossing of two major bike routes and the Appalachian Trail.
Here's me with Nina:
And check out the scenery:
Being just north of the Tennessee boarder, Nina and I parted ways so I could continue south to the Smokey Mountains. After exiting the National Forest on the Tennessee side though, the route took a not-so-pleasant turn. It started with a mountain. Not a big problem, I’ve seen plenty of those. The real problem? Dogs. Every single house that lined this mountain had a dog. And every dog would bolt off the property and chase after me. Up the hill. Keep in mind I had already rode about 75 miles…
Eventually the deadly dog mountain reached its peak and I joyfully descended the other side…into redneck country. Now perhaps I was stressing over nothing except the warnings and cautions I received before I entered the state...or perhaps it was the huge pickup trucks with “road rage redneck” plastered across the windshield. Needless to say, I got out of the...quick.
Eventually I found a much nicer part of the state, home to a lovely family who let me stay in their backyard for the night. Let me tell you though, I really lucked out. Not only did they have perfect hammock trees, but I got TONS of free food. First off, a ham and turkey sandwich, a banana, and cookies for dinner. Then the neighbors gave me a huge bag with yet another loaf of bread, tons of granola bars, candy, a one pound bag of pretzels, and a box of graham crackers. Not to mention they were all incredibly nice, and gave me a delicious breakfast the next morning. Thanks again for a warm welcome into Tennessee (and some relief from the dogs)!
Here we all are:
And the FOOD:
Miles covered: 87
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Day 20:
Today was a bad day...but also a lucky one.
It started out great. An easy eight ride into Elizabethton, TN. I picked up some food, mailed a few things back home, and got “directions” to a bike shop. And by directions I mean I got sent 10 miles in the wrong direction, on a four lane highway, down a gigantic hill. Ever get the feeling you were about to do something completely unnecessary that you would fully regret very shortly, but you went through with it anyway? Today was kind of like that.
So after a few miles of unnecessary pedaling I got to the bike shop in one piece...my bike on the other hand, not so much. I pulled into the parking lot with flat tire #1.
I got the bike fixed up, found my way back onto the route (back up the gigantic hill, on the four lane highway), and continued.
Long story short, I pulled into Jonesborough, TN for lunch, furious and disgruntled over the time I lost. I sat down for my delicious peanut butter and banana sandwich and began to plan the rest of the day. Soon I eagerly got back on the bike, but was greeted by flat tire #2 and #3. Yes, that’s right. All three tires on my bike went flat today. Not cool.
One hour and a lot of tire pumping later, I had made friends with the entire town and was about to set off again. That’s when Cassandra Moore came up and started talking to me. I told her my story, and before I could say goodbye, she offered to put me up in a house for the night. Now I’m never one to turn down free things, so I pondered it over and decided it was a good idea.
A short jaunt down the road, she brought me to her mother’s vacant mansion house, all mine for the night...and stocked with food. Laundry, shower, pizza, lasagna, shrimp, pie...many delicious and wonderful things in one place.
Now I could go on and on about how incredibly (and true) southern hospitality is, but I’m headed out to explore Jonesborough. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves...
I'll explain this one later (but it's Jonesborough at it's finest):
And how about an action shot? BAM
Miles covered: 30ish
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